PATEK PHILIPPE "Asthmometer" Dial chronograph,REF. 1463,S/S,1950's
這是一只由傳奇的鐘錶技師,過去於錶廠內做給自己的手錶,這同時也是一只強調過去傳統技藝的Patek Philippe百達翡麗腕錶;今天突然看到台灣某著名鐘錶銷售網站上,它們代為客戶銷售的手錶時,所看到的一枚有故事的腕錶,看到之後,感到這猶如我常說的"古董錶之溫度",藉此機會與大家一起分享;這枚拍脈計時腕錶約於1950年所生產,此錶則是由當時Patek Philippe內部的 RÉGLEUR(調整校正)製錶師 Jacques Golay所親手為自己製作的手錶,當時計時機芯的橋板設計及製做可都是有專業的製錶師來完成,此人在當時便是廠內的專職製錶師(過去於1941年參與天文台精密度競賽的 Le Coultre & Cie tourbillon regulator N°34748得獎大作,便是由他所製做調整校正完成的),他希望為自己創造一只高度精確的手錶,可以用於日常生活使用,這只錶盤名為" Asthmometer"也就是我們所說的拍脈計數式錶盤,這需要高精密錶盤,計算方才為精確;此製錶師在當時可是與著名的複雜錶橋板設計大師Victorin-Piguet一起於同一工作室工作,所以此錶也算是有了二人的見證下手工完成的,故此錶算是真的獨一無二的訂作手錶了,這是沒有任何爭議的;Patek Philippe Ref.1463向來只生產貴金屬,一直以來也都有很好的市場承接力,價值當然是好的沒話說,原因也是於它的防水性好,因為它的底概是旋入式的設計,旋開之後內部還有一個防塵內蓋,從那簡潔的手工燒青錶盤,更可了解到這非一般小錶;擁有此錶的後代,也就是 Jacques Golay的兒子 Jules Golay在最近將此錶送交拍賣公司代為拍賣,同時也隨錶留著他本人的署名信函告訴下一任的收藏家"它"的身世之謎;由於此錶是製錶師本人自己所購買製作的,故當時Patek Philippe只願意給此錶型號,故此錶並沒有出廠的流水序號,我們可以清楚明白,這真的是一只獨一無二的作品;去年的11月11日的拍賣中,它的預估價格為: 100,000 CHF - 150,000 CHF,這個價格在一般人來看,如果預估範圍內成交已經很不可思議,但我認為獨一無二有故事的腕錶,不會太便宜的,最後還是拍出了194,500 CHF(約650萬台幣),雖然看似昂貴,其實不然,因為今日的你,已經無法買到這樣高素質的機芯及錶款了,最重要的是它僅有一只,所以在收藏家的眼光來看,這類的投資往往的要更多眼光及膽識的,同時我們雖然無法擁有它,但這股暖流是讓人愉快的,你說是嗎??
Watch Castle Of Time / Shop
The present watch is quite possibly unique in stainless steel with asthmometer dial, certainly it appears to be the only example to have appeared at auction to date. This watch was the personal property of the famous Patek Philippe régleur Jacques Golay and its interesting history is detailed in a letter from his son Jules which is included with this lot. Upon inspection it was realized that although the movement is numbered 868889, the case is in fact un-numbered but otherwise bearing the 1463 reference number, Patek Philippe signature and the usual case marks. According to Jules Golay, his father Jacques fi nished this watch whilst working in the atelier of Fils de Victorin-Piguet, part of the Patek Philippe group of companies. As Golay made and fi nished the watch for himself the case simply remained un-numbered, never having passed through that process or having been sold in the usual way which may also account for the perhaps unique combination of asthmometer dial and steel case. The asthmometer scale gives the dial a very unusual and visually dramatic appearance, leaving a large blank space in the upper left-hand quarter. Jacques Golay was a famous and highly respected ‘régleur’, one of the highly skilled watchmakers able to adjust watches to levels of extreme accuracy. He was awarded in 1941 the Guillaume prize by obtaining the best accurate timekeeping between his watch and the Le Coultre & Cie tourbillon regulator N°34748. The regleurs were the highest paid workers in the watch industry because success in the Observatory trials for watches conferred reputation and prestige on the brand and therefore greater commercial success.
